Sunday, September 11, 2016

Rendenbach: A name that rings several bells with shoe afficionados

LEGENDARY LEATHER SINCE

The traditional method of oak-bark ground-tanning has prevailed through four generations of leathermaking at Rendenbach. Our undaunting dedication to this environment-friendly tanning process has been well rewarded: with a product of first class quality that is robust and yet extremely flexible, waterproof and yet breathable. JR-Leather is notably hard wearing, dermatologically kind and exceptionally comfortable to wear.

 

Making good shoes great:

Throughout Europe as well as in the USA, Rendenbach products play an integral part in the manufacture of exclusive footwear.


THE TANNING PROCESS

Dye section

Tanning begins with the dye section. Stripped of its hair, the hide undergoes a slow surface tanning over a period of about four weeks, opening its fibers to absorb the tannin. The hides are passed through several pits, connected in a closed circuit through a system of pipes and containing different concentrations of tanning fluid. The hides themselves hang on frames and are moved manually from one pit to the next on a daily basis.
Submersion

The second stage of the preliminary tanning involves a pit half filled with tanning fluid. The hides are submerged in the fluid with a layer of the shredded tan substances between each one. They remain here for approximately six weeks, after which the procedure is repeated in a second pit.
Oak-bark ground-tanning

The oak-bark ground-tanning is an extremely gentle process taking place in old, three-metre deep oak lined pits. During the course of this process, tannin is absorbed into the hide binding and conserving its protein-structures. Nature supplies the main ingredients for the tan mixture used in traditional oak-bark ground-tanning; primarily oak, spruce and mimosa bark as well as valonea fruit.

A NATURAL UNDERSTANDING
Traditional oak-bark ground-tanning is a process involving biodegradable tanning agents such as bark and fruit. This ecological tanning method results in an especially long lasting and dermatologically kind product.
Leather with the JR-Brand label is waterproof and extremely abrasion resistant, tough yet flexible, very comfortable to wear and optically distinguished by its attractive grain and warm, woody colour.

 

The charactaristic benefits of JR-quality with the brand label:


·         consistently durable
·         a smooth fibre structure that enables an accurate trim
a naturally elegant grain 
·         a smooth fibre structure that enables an accurate trim
·         a naturally elegant grain 
·         natural impermeability
·         specific light weight
·         inherent stability
·         extreme durability
·         absorbs sweat
a    active airing and antiperspirant properties

      More info on www.lederfabrik-rendenbach.de



Sunday, September 4, 2016

A view on the Neapolitan shoulder...

Some of you prefer made-to-measure suits or bespoke suits, so you may have already heard about the so-called infamous ‘Neapolitan Shoulder’? But just in case you haven't - let me tell you a little more about it. Let’s check what one of Naples most known tailors has to say about it.
Photo & design by Lino Sentiero
‘There are three things that can distinguish a Naples-made or Naples-inspired coat shoulder. The first is a lack of padding. The second is a pleated sleevehead. And the third is what the Neapolitans call the spalla camicia, or “shirt shoulder”.’  - Luca Rubinacci
Technically, in Neapolitan jackets, there is next to no padding supporting the shoulder, whereas English ones provide varying degrees of support. Most Italians like a small, high armhole, into which they will hand-sew the slightly larger sleeve head. This creates minute puckers in the cloth, which delights fans of the Neapolitan way. On Saville Row, they consider this however ritual suicide.
Most Neapolitan coats have minimal or even no padding at all, because they are meant to be ultra soft and give their owners comfortable moves. Non padded shoulders have to be measured in increments of 8ths or even 16ths and that's the reason why they are almost never seen in ready-to-wear. Neapolitan shoulders are more sloped, soft and rounded and they need a really good tailor to make them perfectly fit the man's shoulder line.
Exclusive ? 
'Pleated' sleeve heads in this case means that the upper sleeve is deliberately cut much larger than the (typically very small) armscye. After that the excess cloth is fed into the scye as the sleeve is hand-set into the body of the coat, which can not be done by machine. When the sleeve is completely sewn, that extra cloth is gathered and puckered around the scye, which looks really beautiful according to Neapolitan style lovers, but is done for comfort and freedom of movement. This makes the classic Neapolitan coats more attractive, having in mind that they usually have very small arm holes, very close shoulders, and relatively lean bodies. The Neapolitan shouldered coat can be worn all day and is suitable for almost every occasion. Spalla camicia or 'shirt shoulder' means that both strips of seam allowance are folded in the same direction - back under the shoulder.

The History:
As it is said…..The Neapolitan Shoulder was originally invented in Naples by an unknown tailor by mistake. He cut the sleeves larger than the arm holes and they didn't fit properly, which created some obvious creases that puffed out from the shoulder seam and down the sleeve. Shortly after that, some local dandies started to adopt this style and it became a trend throughout the men's community in the city. Nowadays this is 'the coolest and most sought after type of shoulder for men's jackets and shirts' to some. .
Conclusion:
There are three main things, which distinguish the Neapolitan shoulder:
- lack of padding;
- pleated sleeve heads;
- spalla camicia ('shirt shoulder').

Experts say that the Neapolitan shoulder is:

'the quintessential element for exceptional fit on a jacket'.

Why Gentlemen Should Polish Their Own Shoes

Carpentieri Profumi: A perfume revelation from Calabria

A perfume can attract others and also change the energy frequency of the people and environment around you. I believe you can use a sent to create an emotional pathway with someone else’s energy centers:  Their brain, heart and sex receptors, igniting the senses. You can directly alter their state of mind and body through this scent.  It sparks a subliminal key to attraction.
Carpentieri Profumi is not a fancy perfume brand. Nor fashionable or trendy. No ultra expensive marketing campaigns or packaging. Nor crystal bottles…..  It’s not even hip or trendy either…… So what then makes it worth writing about ?
Tradition, craftsmanship and passion. And that’s enough for me !  Carpentieri Profumi,  was started in Calabria, Italy, by two brothers in 1967. And since then, their production processes have not changed. That  gives the perfume therefore a quality that is unsurpassed.
The whole Carpentieri family is very true and faithful to the old Calabrian traditions and they use the local plants, such as fresh olive blossom, blooming  jasmine, cedar flower and pure bergamot  - being that the Carpentieri family is involved in the whole production process, they are able to manufacture custom made fragrances to individual clients. 
Being it a personalized perfume, an interior scent or fragrance (bottega della essenze), a solid perfume (containing 0% alcohol), bathroom products ….
 The pyramid of fragrance
The olfactory notes in perfumes are used to describe the odors that can be perceived at the time of the application of a perfume. The olfactory notes are divided into three classes; the top notes (or capital notes), the heart notes (or middle notes) and the base notes. Any grouping of olfactory notes indicates the group of odors that can be detected depending on the time spent by the application of a perfume. The combination of the three groups of notes constitutes the olfactory pyramid, which serves to describe the aromas.
San Giorgio Morgeto

TOP NOTES Perceived immediately after application of a perfume, the top notes are tiny molecules that evaporate quickly. Correspond to the first impression and develop and enrich gradually joining the middle notes which are the dominant notes of a perfume. The odors that are part of this class of notes are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp." The components that form the generally strong odors top notes, however, by the very volatile composition. Among the top notes can be found substances citrus (lemon, bergamot, tangerine, orange), or herbaceous (sage, rosemary, lavender).
MIDDLE NOTES They held most of the top notes. Their fragrance needs time to develop, and are those that determine the character of the perfume. They emerge as soon dissolve the top notes, so their appearance can take from a few minutes to about an hour later. The heart notes make up the central part of a perfume, and generally are softer and enveloping the other. Among the classic examples of middle notes you may be cited perfumes derived from the flowers (rose, jasmine, lavender) or spices (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg).
BASE NOTES The smell of a perfume that appears when about to disappear the smell of the middle notes. The base notes intensify the character of the perfume and give it the seal, as they act as "controlling" the different evaporation speed of the top notes and middle notes. These notes need more time to develop, but they last longer than the others. Therefore the base notes are perceived by the user of the latest perfume but are those that resist longer than all. They are often balsamic notes (myrrh) or woody (cedar, patchouli, sandalwood).
Antichi Profumi
In this house, perfumes, and fragrances are made with a craftsmanship that compares to passionate Italian winemaking.  The quality of the product is reached with a passion, after a search of combinations, based on ancient proven knowledge. Then, after testing over and over again, smelling an smelling over and over again, …. Only then, is a product ready for production.

So if you’re interested in a pure perfume or fragrance, made to your specific specifications, or conceived by them, this house will prove you right. I’ve worn a few of their perfumes, and always gotten compliments.  The ‘Cedro’(cedar) for example, I scent I would never have chosen, if I didn’t smell it first. An amazing air of Mediterranean spirit surrounds you immediately.  Or the ‘Fior d’Ullivo’ (olive blossom). My daughter got stuck on it immediately.  Or the pleasant smell of the ‘Bergamotto’ eau de cologne. An all-time favourite is the Calabrese perfume.... Refined classics ! 
"Personality is to a man what perfume is to a flower." - Charles M. Schwab

My conclusion, if you go for the pure product, this is where you have to be. They hold very long as well.  And what’s a pleasant side effect is the fact that they are a small family business , and their craftmanship is still available at very affordable prices. Especially when you take the quality and originality in account. This, to me, an exclusive product ! Autheticity at heart, or should I say, .. the nose...

For inquires and/or orders, please contact Ms. Caroline Ingmar : cjingmar@hotmail.com

“...a woman not yet seen, but whose perfume accumulates on the horizon like a storm cloud.” 

 Fernand Dumont, région du cœur et autres textes

www.carpentieriprofumi.it

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